My dirty little secret is that despite always thinking of myself as a bone fide Durbanite, I only started surfing this year. Shameful, I know, and be assured I spend sleepless nights thinking about how many good waves I’ve missed in my lifetime. Thing is, until recently, I’ve always thought that people who wake up at 5:00am to go to the beach in the rain were suffering from the condition known as ‘insanity’.
As it turns out, they’re right and I was wrong. Imagine that.
Going surfing early is awesome, and to all you unbelievers who still think bed is the best place to be as the sun rises on a cold morning, reconsider! Get a board, and a mate, and go sit at backline waiting for that perfect ride to roll in.
It’s not that hard to learn, seriously, if you can grasp the basics of catching waves (which are the same regardless of whether you’re swimming or riding a board), you’re half way there. Standing takes a few tries, but so long as the ocean is not barreling your head off there’s nothing to it.
Paddling out can be tough, no lies. But here’s a secret: piers are your friends, and you don’t have to jump off the end of one to get the advantage. It’s enough to just paddle out alongside one and the current does the work of getting you to backline. Much, much easier than fighting foamies for ten minutes.
It’s also quite safe to leave your car outside Joe Kool’s before sunrise – there’s a friendly car guard that keeps your keys while you’re in the water. Sounds dodgy, yes, but I’d rather trust her than lose a key in the ocean!
My question now for you guys that have known about this ‘surfing’ thing all along: What is the attraction with North? WHY are there millions of guys clustered there when the waves at Bay are just as good?
And where are the secret spots? Go on, tell me.
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